Thursday, September 04, 2014
Football And Yogyakarta
Apparently, Yogyakarta is the most visited destination in Indonesia, second only to Bali.
With its nearby temples, handicrafts and neatly packaged spiritualism it appeals to many
foreign visitors as it is what they like to consider an authentic Indonesian experience.
Kuta beach in Bali isn’t an authentic Indonesian experience according to these folk while incense,
wellness and having someone dig your toe nails out in Yogya is.
With its nearby temples, handicrafts and neatly packaged spiritualism it appeals to many
foreign visitors as it is what they like to consider an authentic Indonesian experience.
Kuta beach in Bali isn’t an authentic Indonesian experience according to these folk while incense,
wellness and having someone dig your toe nails out in Yogya is.
I was sat in one of my favourite cafes in a popular tourist area of Yogyakarta, sorry, they aren’t tourists,
they are travellers even though any subtle difference may be wasted on their hosts, watching the
identikit travellers strut their stuff in their flip flops, baggy cotton trousers and ethnic accessories
which help them blend in man and I wondered what they would make of the Yogyakarta I had come to
experience for a few hours today. How would it rate on their authenticity scale?
they are travellers even though any subtle difference may be wasted on their hosts, watching the
identikit travellers strut their stuff in their flip flops, baggy cotton trousers and ethnic accessories
which help them blend in man and I wondered what they would make of the Yogyakarta I had come to
experience for a few hours today. How would it rate on their authenticity scale?
My ride turns up and helps me escape my revere. Harry is one of the local becak riders but he has
found fame if not fortune by taking to social media in a big way and can be found across the major
platforms under his moniker Harry van Yogya and has a following of thousands.
He is on everything, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and has even written a book. For a while it had even
become a contemporary Art of War for keen business types who wished to think out of the box.
found fame if not fortune by taking to social media in a big way and can be found across the major
platforms under his moniker Harry van Yogya and has a following of thousands.
He is on everything, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and has even written a book. For a while it had even
become a contemporary Art of War for keen business types who wished to think out of the box.
Harry was most recently in the news for taking his rickshaw, known in Indonesia as becak, from
Yogya to Jakarta in support of presidential candidate Joko Widodo, a fair old distance that took
him 12 days to complete!
Yogya to Jakarta in support of presidential candidate Joko Widodo, a fair old distance that took
him 12 days to complete!
Today though was all about football and because of the distances involved we took to a motorcycle
and headed south to Bantul. As Yogya’s sprawl receeded, we were offered glimpses of classic
Java; farmers in conical hats working the paddy, perfectly shaped mountains looming large and menacing
and horse drawn carriages carrying children home from school. Don’t get me wrong, it was no rural idyll
but for those with the time and patience, they were only a short ride away down
the narrow side roads.
and headed south to Bantul. As Yogya’s sprawl receeded, we were offered glimpses of classic
Java; farmers in conical hats working the paddy, perfectly shaped mountains looming large and menacing
and horse drawn carriages carrying children home from school. Don’t get me wrong, it was no rural idyll
but for those with the time and patience, they were only a short ride away down
the narrow side roads.
Set off the main road and next to what was once a main road, Sultan Agung Stadium is a fairly
large arena by local standards, holding perhaps 30,000 + and is home to side Persiba Bantul,
who have been deserted by their fans after facing relegation from the Indonesia Super League!
Goats were grazing in the car parking area as we pulled in and parked right behind the main stand.
large arena by local standards, holding perhaps 30,000 + and is home to side Persiba Bantul,
who have been deserted by their fans after facing relegation from the Indonesia Super League!
Goats were grazing in the car parking area as we pulled in and parked right behind the main stand.
Although there were three games on today, none feature the local heroes. Instead, the focus was
on Division One with teams from Aceh, Banten, Java and Papua competing. The game I had
decided to take in was the first of the day featuring Perserang and Persibas Banyumas.
on Division One with teams from Aceh, Banten, Java and Papua competing. The game I had
decided to take in was the first of the day featuring Perserang and Persibas Banyumas.
There were perhaps 100 people plus or minus inside the stadium including a few fans who had
made the journey from Banyumas. I say made the journey. They could equally have been students
at one of the local universities. Whatever, they were there and they were making a noise while Perserang’s goal was
celebrated by less than half a dozen folks!
made the journey from Banyumas. I say made the journey. They could equally have been students
at one of the local universities. Whatever, they were there and they were making a noise while Perserang’s goal was
celebrated by less than half a dozen folks!
It took me a while to realise, once the game had kicked off, I didn’’t actually know which team
was which despite having seen Perserang earlier in the campaign when they had drawn 2-2 with provincial rivals Persikota at Cilegon! It wasn’t till they took the lead I realised they were
the ones in yellow and the ones making the noise were the Banyumas massive!
was which despite having seen Perserang earlier in the campaign when they had drawn 2-2 with provincial rivals Persikota at Cilegon! It wasn’t till they took the lead I realised they were
the ones in yellow and the ones making the noise were the Banyumas massive!
The game ended 1-1 with Persibas getting a late equaliser which calmed the emotions of their players as they had been
getting increasingly riled with the match officials as the game had worn on. Still, at least they had
the consolation of scoring the goal of the game, a nice effort from outside the box.
getting increasingly riled with the match officials as the game had worn on. Still, at least they had
the consolation of scoring the goal of the game, a nice effort from outside the box.
there were some horses enjoying a stroll around the track. The sunset was spectacular, a massive
orange ball reflecting on the rice fields was a photographers dream as well as an artists but I had little time.
I needed some food and drink before the next game so Harry dropped me, he went off to natter with his mates nearby and I did my thing.
‘How long will it take to get to Sleman,’ I asked Harry when he returned.
‘About 20 - 30 minutes, depending on the traffic.’
It took 40 minutes and I had a numb bum for my pains but we still arrived in good time despite going
round the houses to get there in a bid to avoid Yogya’s traffic jams. At one junction we were serenaded
by a travelling gamelan with its very own Bez ala Happy Mondays!
round the houses to get there in a bid to avoid Yogya’s traffic jams. At one junction we were serenaded
by a travelling gamelan with its very own Bez ala Happy Mondays!
I had been looking forward to visiting Maguwoharjo Stadium, home of PSS, for bloody yonks even
though it appears in no guide books or has no spar facilities. Many have told me it resembles a mini
San Siro though I am unsure how many had been to both. The sole justification for that claim seems
to be the circular ramps on each corner!
though it appears in no guide books or has no spar facilities. Many have told me it resembles a mini
San Siro though I am unsure how many had been to both. The sole justification for that claim seems
to be the circular ramps on each corner!
It is though a decent arena, a proper football stadium as opposed to those cavernous places with
running tracks et all. But tonight, for Cilegon United and Pidie Jaya from Aceh, there was no bugger
there, in fact even fewer than the first game I had seen.
running tracks et all. But tonight, for Cilegon United and Pidie Jaya from Aceh, there was no bugger
there, in fact even fewer than the first game I had seen.
Cilegon have spent some serious money in a bid to get into Divisi Utama including bringing in coach
Bambang Nurdiansyah and it showed. They were set up like a team, had shape and purpose and
even an element of discipline. And they were playing well though to be honest in those first
45 minutes, Pidie Jaya were south of awful.
Bambang Nurdiansyah and it showed. They were set up like a team, had shape and purpose and
even an element of discipline. And they were playing well though to be honest in those first
45 minutes, Pidie Jaya were south of awful.
Playing in yellow, Cilegon were 1-0 up in seconds and comical defending made it two nil (left) within minutes.
That set the tone for the first half and the sides trooped in with Cilegon
four up. Pidie Jaya had created some chances and worked the keeper but their naivety at the
back had cost them big time.
At half time I quizzed Harry about his ride from Yogya to meet Joko. He had gone with a friend
which made sense in deeply traditional and superstitious Java; Joko’s number on the voting
sheet was two! With no money for hotels, they slept for 10 nights in mosques, at bus stations
or in their becaks on their journey west.
which made sense in deeply traditional and superstitious Java; Joko’s number on the voting
sheet was two! With no money for hotels, they slept for 10 nights in mosques, at bus stations
or in their becaks on their journey west.
By the time they reached Bekasi, they were contacted by Joko’s people who asked them to
rest up a couple of days until he was back in town. Finally reaching Jakarta, they met the man
himself and had a couple of nights in a hotel allowing them the chance to clean up finally!
rest up a couple of days until he was back in town. Finally reaching Jakarta, they met the man
himself and had a couple of nights in a hotel allowing them the chance to clean up finally!
Second half and Banur had withdrawn a couple of his most potent striking options.
Pidie Jaya were also playing much better, pressing higher up the field and restricting the
space for Cilegon’s midfield to release their strikers. On the rare occasion the yellows
could get wide the final ball was invariably awful and although the game ended 5-1 with Pidie scoring in the very last minute, they could emerge from the game with some respect
for their efforts after a very poor first half.
Pidie Jaya were also playing much better, pressing higher up the field and restricting the
space for Cilegon’s midfield to release their strikers. On the rare occasion the yellows
could get wide the final ball was invariably awful and although the game ended 5-1 with Pidie scoring in the very last minute, they could emerge from the game with some respect
for their efforts after a very poor first half.
The journey back was quicker as we used the main roads but I still got a numb bum.
Back on backpacker street, a few places remained open but most spiritual seekers had retired
to their air conditioned rooms, no doubt dreaming of tye dye, flowers and the pungent odor of
kretek. It was time too for me to get my own rest.
Back on backpacker street, a few places remained open but most spiritual seekers had retired
to their air conditioned rooms, no doubt dreaming of tye dye, flowers and the pungent odor of
kretek. It was time too for me to get my own rest.
No doubt the Yogya I enjoy won’t be appearing in to many guide books. I can’t imagine a flock
of backpackers earnestly seeking out the fixture lists of local side PSIM as well as Persiba and
PSS but those who do would get to enjoy an experience far more ‘authentic’ than bathing in scented
soap or have someone cleaning their ears out with a candle!
of backpackers earnestly seeking out the fixture lists of local side PSIM as well as Persiba and
PSS but those who do would get to enjoy an experience far more ‘authentic’ than bathing in scented
soap or have someone cleaning their ears out with a candle!
# posted by Me @ 7:08 PM 
